In May this year I got a phone call confirming my place as a project development intern with an NGO down in the south of Madagascar (You can visit the website at the link, more on what they do to come in the next post.)
This NGO I had followed for a long time and was really interested in their work in a very poor region of Mada, specifically their community health projects. This was amazing news as I really had my heart set on working here again and would get to use my degree and more importantly bring my previous experience and knowledge to the table.
What followed was a series of logistical nightmares- and I’ll give you the shortened version. I knew that the visa application process wasn’t the easiest in the world but this was taking the mick. After 8 weeks applying for a permit and a further 3 weeks on the phone to the embassy in Paris I was getting seriously stressed about not having a visa (or even passport) to travel. Luckily, it arrived 2 days before my flight and then whilst packing my stuff it all became real! This stress along with ordering a pharmacy worth of medicines and all the clothes you might need for four different seasons, then packing it into small suitcases, was not the start I wanted to my new job. There were so many things I never considered when moving to a country like this.
After 24 hours of travelling I arrived in Fort Dauphin on an internal flight from Antananarivo. (Of course there was a long delay, this is Mada.) The Plane came in really low over the bay and the views were unreal. I have never visited this part of Madagascar before and it’s unlike anything I’ve seen.
I Immediately started sweating despite it being a cool 19 degrees and the end of winter here. Thank you to my ginger genes for that. Later that day I moved into my new house…pictures to follow in part 2. I was over the moon to see double beds, decent rooms and most importantly- a proper inside toilet! The house is lovely and has everything I could need (for now). My housemate is an awesome Bear Grylls type, cooking outside on a charcoal stove and completely content with ice-cold showers. Maybe that’ll rub off on me. Maybe not. I’m starting to think I like my luxuries a lot more than I originally thought.
The neighbourhood is typical Mada, lots of small shops to buy snacks and my favourite mofo akondro which is battered and fried banana. SOO GOOD. The people are so welcoming and I frequently am greeted in the street with “salama vahaza” (hello foreigner). I was surprised by the amount of sand everywhere on the streets, which I guess makes sense being very windy and near the beach. I have to say it’s not that easy to walk on. But at least I’ll have killer legs by the end of the year with all the hills and trekking around town.
A noticeable difference between Fort Dauphin and the previous city which I lived in (Antananarivo) is the way men are towards me. It was common for men to shout, touch or intimidate women in Tana, but here that hasn’t happened so far and the men seem to be a lot more respectful. Perhaps that is in their culture or just because it’s a lot quieter here with very few expats. A pleasant surprise nonetheless.The first night I was welcomed by the team at SEED by a dinner at Chez Rossi. The team is only about 20 people whom all have interesting backgrounds and reasons for coming here. We got chatting over a nice 50p beer and despite them nursing hangovers from a hump day treat gone wild they were really making an effort.
So overall, a good first impression of Fort dauphin and my new place. There’s much more to come so wait out for part 2 where I discuss the shitty weather, the local nightlife, and the job!
#travel #madagascar #work #expat #zerotohero
MADAlife 